Hot wire and temporary gate

After we installed the polycord the next day we started to install some of the hot wires. Yes those lovely wires that will keep the deer out and future livestock away from going through the garden.

Lee got to use more new fencing gear so he was excited. I never knew that putting a fence together would require so many different parts. That’s one benefit of doing just high tensile New Zealand type of fencing.  It would go together faster. The down side of New Zealand style fencing is that you can loose livestock though it and it lets predators come in. This was the main reason that we chose the high tensile woven fencing.

First new part Lee got to use is…..the tube insulator. The tube insulator is stapled to the wooden post with the hot wire running though it.

The wraparound insulators are used to tie off the hot wire at the post.

Bull nose insulators are used on the interior corners.

A four and a half foot high H-brace was connected to the gardens seven foot H-brace earlier. This was done because there is going to be a entry gate right off of it. It was put up so we wouldn’t have to stretch woven wire for a few feet off the garden end post. This corner was where the two bull nose insulators were used.

We put two hot wires running down the fence at 16 inches and 47 inches. 16 inches is low enough to prevent sheep from rubbing on the fence but high enough that they could eat the grass below it. 47 inches is below the top of the woven fence but high enough to prevent livestock from climbing or leaning on the fence.

The hot wires are here for livestock but they are also the first line of defense against deer. Scent caps are placed on the highest hot wire to encourage deer to take a sniff and zap themselves. Once they experience that  hopefully they will cease trying to siege the garden.

After we put in the hot wires, we then went about constructing a temporary gate. This gate is ten feet wide, big enough for a truck or tractor to go though. We used two cattle panels and trimmed the ends to size. Right now we just used some wire and hemp rope to tie it to the wood posts. Later on we will make a more permanent gate.

Lee wired the two cattle panels together with wire and let them overlap.

After the gate was up Lee made a temporary connection to run the hot wires together through the fence. Later on he plans on running the hot wire under the fence using double insulated cable though a plastic pipe. He made the connection using split bolts and an insulated wire.

Once we completed this we discovered we couldn’t hook up the electric charger because we didn’t have a long enough extention cord. So the fence is still not hot. One of these days though….

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2 Responses to Hot wire and temporary gate

  1. Randy says:

    You should make it a solar electric fence. …We’re going to hook up a solar panal on our gate to our property to avoid running electricity out there.

  2. lee says:

    I really wanted to use a solar fence charger. Unfortunately, most people seem to have bad experiences with the farm store brands being vastly underpowered even for small fences. On top of that, our northwest winters include lots of clouds and short days. Even if I bought a nice charger, I’d have to oversize the panel to deal with the winters. The price tag for this setup ran up into the $600 range. I know I sometimes overspend (polyrope and insulators when hardware store rope and staples might have sufficed), but I have my limits. :)

    Ultimately, I bought the Kube 4000 wide impedance charger for $129. It has more kick than any solar unit I could afford, and uses only 4.5 watts/hour of power. At local electric rates, that’s about $2.56 per year.

    That said, I am a big fan of solar tech. Way down on our priority list is a rack-mounted solar install.

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