With the H-braces completed we were ready to go on to the next step, pulling the top three wires of the garden fence. This process was pretty easy.
Starting out, Lee marked with chalk where each of the wires would be placed using a pre-measured board as a guide. Sometimes the wire can’t be placed on the mark if it has to cross a wood brace.
Next, we hammered staples at the corners or midpoints. Just enough to hold the wire but not to create a lot of drag.
We pulled the smooth wire off our spinning jenny, through the staples we’ve put up. This process went much faster the second day, after we rebuilt the spinning jenny. When we reached the end of the wire run, we looped it around through a staple, and crimped it.
Back at the start of the run, we added another crimped loop and a strainer ratchet. The top wire gets a tension spring. The spring is there to indicate 150 pounds of pull, so you can pull on the wire and check that the others are similarly tight. It also helps cushion impacts if a deer does try to jump the fence. We connected the two wires and take out some of the slack.
We walked back around and added staples at posts we missed the first time. Posts that are at the top or bottom of a hill get a double staple arrangement to resist the pull. (Like this one.)
We clipped the wire to the T-posts. The wood posts really hold the wire, so the height at the T-post is mostly determined for us.
At the corners we dropped staples behind the wire to minimize friction when it’s tightened up.
Then, we tightened up the ratchet to the appropriate tension (determined by measuring the spring). After repeating the process 5 more times the garden top wires are done.